Flags of all sizes and origins dominated the scene: Leicester, Coventry, Marwood Whites, Courthouse Reds, Oulton Broad, and Hereford. From the corners of England to Belgrade, polyester St George flags seemed omnipresent, claiming almost every inch of Gelsenkirchen for either Serbian or English fans. The fervor of international football fandom was unmistakable.
Despite the heightened security concerns, the first-round match between Serbia and England, tagged as "high risk" by UEFA, proceeded without major incidents. This match marked the resurgence of the international football tournament atmosphere, a much-missed spectacle since France 2016. For the past few days, the Ruhr valley has been a vibrant hub of football excitement, a clear indicator that the spirit of football tournaments has made a grand return.
Fans from across Europe and beyond converged in Germany for Euro 2024, turning the event into a cultural melting pot. In Essen, one could spot Japanese ultras and a Mexican family donning England gear, including Bellingham jerseys. The camaraderie, banter, and revelry — quintessential elements of football culture — flourished once more. Drinking, flag-waving, donning vintage shirts, and singing new chants like the one about Phil Foden to Bruce Springsteen’s "Dancing in the Dark" defined the fan experience. After enduring tournaments in restrictive environments, the fans’ joy at being able to freely gather and celebrate was palpable.
Challenges were inevitable. The weather was dreary, and logistical issues plagued fans, particularly in northern Germany. England fans, heavily indulged in beer since morning, had to trudge four miles through the rain from Gelsenkirchen station to the stadium due to transportation woes. Such hurdles, though inconvenient, are part and parcel of tournament football, adding to its unpredictable charm.
Inside the stadium, the atmosphere was electric. Schalke’s grand structure amplified every cheer, drumbeat, and clap. The national anthems ignited a brief exchange of boos between the two sets of fans, but the energy quickly shifted to passionate support. England fans belted out the Foden song and celebrated Jude Bellingham’s opening goal with fervor. Even the usually omnipresent "Three Lions" chant made a late appearance, underscoring the evolving dynamics of the crowd’s enthusiasm.
The fervor of football fandom is influenced by several factors, notably the team’s performance. Yet, external conditions like the weather and financial constraints also play a role. Despite the high costs in Germany, younger England fans, mindful of their budgets, engaged in lively discussions about saving money. Scottish fans in Düsseldorf maintained their spirits despite their team’s performance, highlighting the seasoned perspective they bring to the game.
This opening week has set a vibrant tone for the tournament, reminding everyone that football culture thrives beyond the corporate ownership of the sport. In Germany, this summer, it’s clear that football is fundamentally about the people, and the people have returned with all their passion and exuberance.